Naturopathic Control: handcrafted art

There are different methods for creating food- and cosmetic-safe silicone molds that include the 1) starch and 2) soap methods. Select a method based on certain desired characteristics of the mold. For instance, if you need an extremely flexible mold that can be peeled away from a hard object with much ease and also one to capture very fine detail, the soap method is a good fit. Conversely, if you need a mold that is very firm and strong, whose structure can remain (largely) unchanged even when filled with water, the starch method is ideal. I particularly like the starch method because of its versatility. Specifically, adding oil as an option provides considerable flexibility without compromising the strength too much. I enjoy using this method for making my own loaf-shaped molds for DIY soap making.

Items for Making a DIY Silicone Mold (Corn Starch Method):

the object to be used for creating a silicone mold
Corn starch, an amount that is very roughly 50% of the silicone
Gloves, like rubber gloves, NOT latex because the silicon sticks to latex.
Silicone, 100% pure ~ . The entire tube of 280 ml sufficed for a soap mold with a surface area of 94 square inches (using a stick blender box of 3*3*14 inches. my mold also small tabs on its 4 sides).
Small strip of cling wrap or plastic. This can be used to seal off the tip of the silicone tube. Most tubes continue to ooze silicone after you have squeezed the amount you want.
caulking gun (if the silicone comes in a caulking tube)
Oil, a dash. any type that includes sunflower oil, baby oil or pure mineral oil ~ (to allow the mold to stretch and flex, characteristics that make it considerably easier to handle the silicone mass). Since the process if messy, you may want to put the oil in a small dish aside. (optional)
Colour, mixing container and pop-cycle stick (for stirring). Examples include food dye or acrylic paint. Examples of a mixing container include a plastic cup or bowl. (optional)
Flat working surface covered with a protective barrier like parchment paper --or-- a mixing bowl --or-- for a no-mess way of containing and kneading the silicone dough, a zip lock bag from which the mass can be piped through a new hole. NB however that you will lose a bit of the dough to the sides of the bag.
Rolling pin. This is useful for making log soap molds. (optional)
A ruler. This will come in handy with the rolling pin. (optional)
Good ventilation
Advanced. mineral spirits, to thin out silicone. Mineral spirits are usually used for cleaning up interior jobs. You must however combine all ingredietns as follows: 1 part silicone, 1 part corn starch and 0.5 part spirits. (optional)

Steps for Making a DIY Silicone Mold (Corn Starch Method):

Prepare the mold object on the work surface. There is a short time window to work once the silicone is ready.
(optional). To have an even colour, put the silicone in a small container aside (like a plastic cup or bowl). Mix in the colorant. You may combine the colour by adding it on top of the silicone when adding the silicone to the corn starch later.
Place a layer of corn starch onto the work surface.
Make a depression in the corn starch
Pour the silicone into the depression and onto itself. Do not spread the silicone flat as it can become over-saturated with cornstarch and hard to collect into a single mass.
Dust more corn starch on top of the silicone
Be prepared to work quickly since corn starch accelerates the hardening process of the silicone.
Oil the finger tips of your gloves and or work a small amount into the silicone dough. The more oil you use, the more the oil will allow the mold to stretch and may help in un-molding creations (like soap) without cracking the edges of the mold.
Knead until the mass feels like bread dough. Do not worry about the kneading all of the starch. The excess should be left behind.
Add more oil as needed.
Without delay, place the mass over the shape and spread it as required. If need be, you can pinch pieces from one area to add to others. Pay special attention to reinforcing corners because they are more susceptible to tearing.
NB. Create a thick lip which you can use for making it easy to release your creation (soap, concrete shape, etc) from the mold.
As an option, create slits in the lip to anchor vertical separators
De-mold when the mass springs back when squeezed.

Items for Making a DIY Silicone Mold (Detergent Method):

Silicone, 100% pure ~
Small strip of cling wrap or plastic. This can be used to seal off the tip of the silicone tube. Most tubes continue to ooze silicone after you have squeezed the amount you want.
A bucket or other water holding container
Water
Detergent (dishwashing liquid. I do not believe that soap powder will work)
A smooth surface. Examples include a plastic cutting mat, plastic projector sheet
Colour, mixing container and pop-cycle stick (for stirring). Examples include food dye or acrylic paint. Examples of a mixing container include a plastic cup or bowl. (optional)
Gloves, like rubber gloves, NOT latex because the silicon sticks to latex.
Flat working surface covered with a protective barrier like parchment paper- or - a mixing bowl
Good ventilation

Steps for Making a DIY Silicone Mold (Detergent Method):

Prepare the mold object on the work surface. There is a short time window to work once the silicone is ready.
Make very soapy water into the water container. The soapier the water, the less likely the silicone will adhere to the gloves (or hands) when you knead it.
In a colour mixing container aside, place the silicone, add the colour and then combine the 2 homogeneously. (optional)
Squeeze the silicone into the water
Pull all the silicone together
Knead the silicone while keeping it under water. Knead until the mass stops being stringy and has sufficient malleability.
Without delay, place the mass over the shape and spread it as required. Be especially quick to proceed to this step if you need to capture a lot of fine detail. If need be, you can pinch pieces from one area to add to others. Pay special attention to reinforcing corners because they are more susceptible to tearing.
NB. Create a thick lip which you can use for making it easy to release your creation (soap, concrete shape, etc) from the mold.
As an option, create slits in the lip to anchor vertical separators
Spread the silicone mass over the mold.
De-mold when the mass springs back when squeezed.

MORE CONTENT RELATED TO MAKING A DIY SILICONE MOLD

Did you know? Silicone cures faster with heat.

paper mache papier maché as a diy art therapy project

Papier maché, aka paper mache, is considered sufficiently simple to allow a very wide age range of people to benefit from its healing effects on anxiety (including PTSD) and other mental health concerns (including bipolar disorder). In fact, when I made papier maché bowls with a young mother and her 2-year old twins, we all enjoyed it. However, in addition to this fun factor, it is a particularly useful form of art therapy for young children who can not yet express complex emotions.
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I finally understand why my darkest moments at 9 found me doing something I'd never done before. Barefooted outside in a region only hours away from the Amazon rainforest, I squatted low to Mother. I think I'd already begun to speak with her by then. Anyway, I uprooted enough grass to make a small clearing and then used my fingers to scoop sticky mud balls from the bare ground. I loved how my fingers looked chocolatey brown and messy. With meditative focus, I then moulded the mud into clay bowls, used twigs to carve designs around the sides and then 'baked' my creations in the sun. At times, my otherwise racing mind could barely listen to thoughts other than those impatient ones that were eager for my babies to dry. When the babies were finally done, someone understood their perfection. Mr Khan, dear Mr Khan! (Mr Khan was a security guard whose plump body and white hair and beard made him into an Indian Santa Claus, ie if you could see his perfection.) Mr Khan, I remember! You smiled at their scratchy sides and uneven rims. Then, under my watchful gaze, you used the utmost care to arrange each baby into your canvas bag ... so they would not break. Then you assured me you would keep them safe and even give some to your daughter (who you so often mentioned while you had a special look in your eye). Today, I smile at that bitter-sweet chocolate Summer ... so long ago but so instantaneously near. Thank you Mr Khan!

For this paper mache (papier maché) DIY art therapy project, you will need:
- A few days
- A Mold & Paper:

A mold. I used a bowl. Other common shapes include plates and platters.

Mold protector. Plastic cling wrap or aluminium foil will suffice.

Paper. Old newspaper is commonly used

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- Glue:

1 part flour (as a glue)

2 parts water at room temperature

Pinch of salt (to deter the formation of mold)

- Painting

Amazon.com Widgets

Base color. It should be sufficiently thick to hide the newspaper print. White paint is usually used. I use construction water-based paint that is non-toxic. It is also the cheapest option, at least in my area.

Colored paint. You may use natural food colors like turmeric powder. You may use acrylic paint.

- Varnish (as a sealant)

For this paper mache (papier maché) DIY art therapy project, use the following steps:

Place the bowl face down. Cover it with plastic wrap (or even aluminium foil). Do not leave any open gaps. Allow some excess wrap to tuck under the bowl. Set this aside.

Make paper strips. This is no science with precise measurements. Mine are roughly 1 inch wide and a few inches long. The length is usually enough to cover the longest part of the mold (like height or diameter for instance). Set the paper strips aside.

Combine the flour, water and salt in a bowl

Submerge a dry paper strip into the flour mixture until completely saturated. Hold it up and remove excess with your fingers.

Place the strip over the bowl. Continue with other strips of paper until you have roughly 3 layers. Smooth each new strip over previous ones to avoid holes and potential air bubbles. Keep in mind that this step allows your bowl to have structure and strength. In that case, allow the strips to cross and overlap each other. Ultimately, your new structure should not have any holes.

A golden rule of papier maché is "no moisture". If you do not comply before proceeding to the following steps, your work is likely to grow mold. Place your craft (with its mold) somewhere that allows it to dry completely before moving to the next step. I continue to use the mold at this time to allow the bowl to maintain the shape of the mold. If there is sun, I place it out onto the verandah to get the intense afternoon sun and ventilation. --

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Do not assume your craft is dry based only on outward appearances. After all, the inner layers may remain damp while the visible outer layer has become crisp. Consequently, I usually allow the craft to dry for an extended period or roughly 2 or more days ... just to be sure.

Apply the base coat of paint (to hide the print). If your design is a solid color without designs, you may color the base coat to skip the drying period between the base coat and colored paint. Allow to dry thoroughly before proceeding. Alternatively, after the base color has dried, paint shapes and use several colors onto the base coat. At this stage, I would recommend a thick acrylic paint that will not bleed with the base color. It is a judgment call whether you should continue to use your mold. If you are concerned about losing the shape, continue to use the mold.

After paint has dried, apply a thin coat of varnish and allow to dry completely before applying each required additional coat. I usually use 2 coats of varnish. Since varnish is flammable, I allow it to dry away from the heat of the sun.